CATEGORY
Most family accommodation in Istanbul falls into one of two categories. The large chain hotels near Taksim — central, efficient, and designed for everyone, which is another way of saying designed for no one in particular. Or the quieter options further from the centre, where the city is more manageable but getting anywhere requires planning. […]
In 2012, The Guardian named Çukurcuma one of the 100 best neighbourhoods in the world to live in. The list was put together not by ranking attractions but by asking what it actually feels like to be somewhere — the texture of daily life, the way a place holds itself in the morning before it […]
Cafer arrived before we did. He was already on the front steps of Hammamhane when the hotel opened — sitting in the particular way that cats sit when they are demonstrating ownership rather than occupying space. He has not moved far since. Guests returning late from dinner find him there. Guests leaving early for the […]