Beyoğlu

Most family accommodation in Istanbul falls into one of two categories. The large chain hotels near Taksim — central, efficient, and designed for everyone, which is another way of saying designed for no one in particular. Or the quieter options further from the centre, where the city is more manageable but getting anywhere requires planning. […]

There are parts of Istanbul that announce themselves. Cihangir does not. It sits on a slope above Tophane, a residential neighbourhood of breakfast spots that require waiting for on a Sunday, bookshops that stay open late, and the kind of cafés where the same people have been sitting at the same tables for years. Writers […]